A new Flinders Lane venue channels what’s hot right now in France

Steak frites, duck liver pate and chocolate mousse have crept onto dozens of Melbourne menus over the years, even at restaurants that aren’t French. But a minimalist new spot at the top end of town promises a genuine taste of what’s hot in France’s bistros right now.

The concrete and timber-clad Vinesmith, on the corner of Flinders Lane and Spring Street, has chef Richard Hayes (ex-The Lincoln and London’s Ledbury) channelling what he saw while working in Paris.

“The French thing is very on-trend at the moment, but I’m trying to do something different to the cliche dishes,” Hayes says.

Channelling bistronomy – bistro favourites elevated by pristine produce and cheffy techniques – Hayes allows his suppliers to guide him, designing his menus around the best ingredients of the day.

Port Phillip pink snapper appeared this week with pea mousse, veloute and a jumble of spring vegetables including broad beans. “Next week there’ll most likely be a different fish,” says the chef, whose wife is French.

Lamb rack channels Middle Eastern flavours (a nod to his Lebanese grandfather) via sumac and aniseed, while blue mackerel with miso, buckwheat and radish-cucumber salsa leans more Japanese. Vegetables are a strong component of every dish.

“This is actually more how Parisians are eating now,” Hayes says.

Vinesmith – owned by a winemaking group of the same name – encompasses a bistro, wine bar, bottle shop and tasting room over two levels in the space that has housed venues including Verge and Hihou.

The owner’s wineries, Blue Pyrenees and Glenlofty, are the focus of Vinesmith’s wine list, but these are joined by their counterpart French varietals, such as bold reds from Bordeaux and whites from Burgundy.

The upper-floor bistro overlooks the canopy of Treasury Gardens and serves various set menus, starting at $49 for two courses.

After dark, the cellar door facing Spring Street shuts up shop and becomes a wine bar. Stop by for quail egg croquettes and duck pate de campagne (a coarse pate or smooth terrine, depending on how you look at it) that’s made in-house, or larger dishes such as steak frites.

Bistro open Tue-Sat noon-3.30pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm

Wine bar open Tue-Sat 5pm-11pm

1 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, vinesmith.com.au