Formerly strife-torn, this is now one of Europe’s coolest cities
Belfast has enjoyed an incredible transformation in recent decades: from strife-torn city to one of Europe’s coolest new destinations, and its tourism boom is anchored around three “Ts”: Titanic, Thrones and Troubles.
There’s Titanic Belfast, a brilliant immersive attraction in the very shipyard where the vessel was built; numerous filming locations for Game of Thrones fans; and the sobering tales and former hotspots of the Troubles, the sectarian conflict that beset Belfast between the late 1960s and 1998.
Dolores Vischer leads the Belfast Music Walking Tour.
Northern Ireland’s capital also increasingly strikes a chord with folk seeking culture, festivals and gigs. Home to more than 100 live venues – from opulent theatres and futuristic auditoriums to craic-fuelled pubs and the sportsfield where Bruce Springsteen played to a 40,000-strong crowd in May 2024 – Belfast was made a UNESCO City of Music in 2021, with the award providing impetus for up-and-coming local musicians and sparking a late career change for one resident in her 60s.
“Music was always my passion – writing songs, playing drums, singing in a choir, so this was the perfect opportunity to follow that passion,” says Dolores Vischer, who swapped roles in publishing and communications to become a qualified guide to Belfast’s vibrant arts scene and musical heritage. We join her popular Belfast Music Walking tour, a leisurely music-themed stroll accompanied by a soundtrack, starting at the Ulster Hall, an elegant Victorian concert hall that has staged everyone from the Rolling Stones and AC/DC to Johnny Cash and Belfast’s own Van Morrison.
“Led Zeppelin played Stairway to Heaven here for the very first time in 1971,” says Vischer, who points out Ulster Hall’s 1860s pipe organ and plaques honouring musicians. One is Ruby Murray, “Belfast’s first pop princess”. Explaining that her name was adopted for “curry” in Cockney rhyming slang, Dolores plays us Murray’s Softly Softly , No.1 in the UK singles charts in 1955.
Tracks from other Northern Irish legends, plus emerging stars like Dani Larkin and Problem Patterns, float from Vischer’s portable speakers as we shuffle through Belfast, pausing at points of sonic interest, sometimes with our hips swaying and toes tapping.
Ulster Hall is a lauded venue for live bands.
We see teenagers taking turns to play the grand piano at 2 Royal Avenue, a new creative and community space in a domed former bank that was most recently a supermarket.
“Gary Lightbody, frontman of Snow Patrol, said music is in Belfast’s DNA and I’d say we probably have more people who sing or play something than in most cities of this size,” says Vischer, before we jig by Kelly’s Cellars, a 300-year-old watering hole that hosts traditional Irish music.
Around the corner, we take a pew in the First Church Belfast, founded by 17th-century Presbyterians and renowned for its spine-tingling concerts and acoustics. The Northern Ireland Opera, led by Australian-born director Cameron Menzies, previously of the Sydney and Melbourne Symphony Orchestras, occasionally performs here.
We traverse the cobbled lanes of the Cathedral Quarter, an enclave of bars, hip cafes and Michelin-starred restaurants. Vischer shows us a black-and-white photograph of the area, looking distinctly more derelict, during the Troubles, and describes how Belfast’s music scene was kept alive in the 1970s and ’80s by punk bands such as Stiff Little Fingers, The Undertones and Terri Hooley, founder of the Good Vibrations music shop and record label (he was portrayed by Game of Thrones’ Richard Dormer in 2013 film Good Vibrations).
Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter.
Cathedral Quarter’s newest boutique hotel The Foundry is on the site of the Harp Bar, where punk bands played. It’s located next to arts hub The Black Box and is a saxophone’s throw from Berts Jazz Bar, Belfast’s only dedicated jazz bar-restaurant, inside the plush Merchant Hotel.
After The Undertones’ rollicking Teenage Kicks, Vischer plays us Oh Yeah by Ash, a power-pop three-piece from Downpatrick, south of Belfast.
Ash were just out of their teens, and already UK chart-toppers, when they played alongside U2 at Belfast’s Waterfront Hall in May 1998 to promote the Yes vote in the referendum for the Good Friday Agreement, a deal designed to end the Troubles and bring peace to the province.
Later, we watch the Ulster Orchestra perform Star Wars scores at the Waterfront Hall, but first we hit the Oh Yeah Music Centre, a cherished grassroots music hub in a converted whisky warehouse. It’s home to recording studios, a vinyl store and an exhibition jammed with instruments, outfits and snaps of influential Northern Irish musicians, including Van Morrison, Them and Gary Moore.
The centre also hosts intimate gigs. Ash launched their latest album, Race the Night, here last year. To round off the tour, we enjoy locally-brewed craft ales and an acoustic show by Aqua Tofana, a young Belfast-based singer-songwriter-guitarist-producer.
The Oh Yeah Music Centre features exhibitions about Belfast’s musical history.
You don’t have to walk far to catch a live act in Belfast – browse the listings or just follow your ears – but I’d recommend coming in early May when the city has a spring in its step and feels a bit like a mini-Edinburgh with several of its annual festivals running concurrently.
These include the Festival of Fools (street theatre and acrobats), Hit The North (a street art festival) and the Cathedral Quarter Arts Festival where, across multiple locations, you can catch musicians, comedians, poets, magicians, film screenings and book readings.
Venues range from a riverside marquee to friendly backstreet boozers like The Sunflower, which sports a striking green security cage by its entrance, a relic of the Troubles, when patrons would have to be scrutinised by staff before they entered the bar. It’s purely ornamental now, a nod to the bad old days and a symbol of just how far buoyant Belfast has come.
Five more things to do in and around Belfast
Stormont Estate
Stormont Estate, the site of Northern Ireland’s main Parliament Buildings.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
See where the politicians of Northern Ireland’s devolved government face off (and admire the decadent interior design) on a free tour of the neoclassical parliament building set amid parkland east of the city. See niassembly.gov.uk
Mcconnell’s Distillery
Reviving a whisky brand established in Belfast in 1776, this brand-new distillery offers tours and tastings in a converted wing of Crumlin Road Gaol, a once-notorious prison that has self-guided tours. See mcconnellsirishwhisky.com; crumlinroadgaol.com
Strangford Lough
Edged by National Trust mansions, rolling hills and storybook villages, this island-speckled sea inlet south of Belfast was the backdrop for Bloodlands, a television drama starring James Nesbitt. It’s good for boat trips, kayaking and birding. See strangfordloughactivitycentre.com
Hillsborough Castle
Also south of Belfast is the royal family’s residence in Northern Ireland. Wander the manicured gardens and tour the Georgian property’s lavishly-furnished rooms, hung with paintings by artists including Anthony van Dyck, Joshua Reynolds and King Charles III. See hrp.org.uk/hillsborough-castle
Antrim Coast
From quaint fishing harbours to the hulking basalt columns of Giant’s Causeway, plus various Game of Thrones filming locations, the seaside north of Belfast is a delight. Follow the coast round to Londonderry, another once-troubled city reborn. See visitcausewaycoastandglens.com
The details
Fly
Qantas flies to Belfast from Sydney and Melbourne via Perth or Singapore and London Heathrow. Alternatively, fly to Dublin with Emirates via Dubai and take an airport express coach (about two hours) to Belfast. If visiting Britain first, most city airports, including London, Manchester and Birmingham, have regular flights to Belfast. See qantas.com.au; emirates.com/au
Tour
The Belfast Music Walking Tour is held fortnightly on Saturdays and costs £20 ($39). See creativetoursbelfast.com; deetoursireland.com
Stay
The Merchant Hotel has rooms from around £239 ($469) a night. The centrally located Belfast Hometel has studios with kitchens from around £146 a night. See themerchanthotel.com; room2.com/belfast
Eat
Run by celebrity chef Danny Millar, Stock has enticing seasonal menus and daily fish, meat and vegetarian specials. It overlooks St George’s Market, which sells fresh produce, cakes and arts and crafts, Friday to Sunday. At Home, a cosy restaurant behind Belfast City Hall, expect dishes such as rump of local Mourne lamb and roast monkfish with crab bouillabaisse. See stockbelfast.com; homebelfast.co.uk
More
visitbelfast.com; discovernorthernireland.com; ireland.com
The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Ireland and Tourism Northern Ireland.
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